Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
